I had marked the spot during my drive up
the valley, and now saw it again from this far height, but I could
not be satisfied with distant views. Weather and evil quarters
making it impossible to remain at Squillace, I decided to drive
forthwith to the railway station, see how much time remained to me
before the arrival of the train for Reggio, and, if it could be
managed, visit in that interval the place that attracted me.
It is my desire to be at peace with all men, and in Italy I have
rarely failed to part with casual acquaintances--even innkeepers
and cocchieri--on friendly terms; but my host of the _Albergo
Nazionale_ made it difficult to preserve good humour. Not only did
he charge thrice the reasonable sum for the meal I could not eat,
but his bill for my driver's _colazione_ contained such astonishing
items that I had to question the lad as to what he had really
consumed. It proved to be a very ugly case of extortion, and the
tone of sullen menace with which my arguments were met did not help
to smooth things. Presently the man hit upon a pleasant sort of
compromise.
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