Throughout he
grumbles, nothing is quite as it should be, and when the bill is
presented he grumbles still more vigorously, seldom paying the sum
as it stands. He rarely appears content with his entertainment, and
often indulges in unbounded abuse of those who serve him. These
characteristics, which I have noted more or less in every part of
Italy, were strongly illustrated at the _Concordia_. In general,
they consist with a fundamental good humour, but at Cotrone the tone
of the dining-room was decidedly morose. One man--he seemed to be
a sort of clerk--came only to quarrel. I am convinced that he
ordered things which he knew the people could not cook just for the
sake of reviling their handiwork when it was presented. Therewith he
spent incredibly small sums; after growling and remonstrating and
eating for more than an hour, his bill would amount to seventy or
eighty centesimi, wine included. Every day he threatened to withdraw
his custom; every day he sent for the landlady, pointed out to her
how vilely he was treated, and asked how she could expect him to
recommend the _Concordia_ to his acquaintances.
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